Buying Second-Hand and Vintage Clothing Online

Second-hand clothing is where the best value in the wardrobe usually is — older garments are frequently better made — and where the buying process is least forgiving, because there is one of each item and returns are often not offered.

Sizing is the biggest trap

Vintage sizing bears little relation to modern sizing. Sizes have drifted substantially over decades, so a label from the 1970s or 1980s may correspond to something several sizes smaller today.

The only reliable method is flat measurements. A good seller lists them: chest or bust across the flat garment, waist, length, sleeve, shoulder to shoulder. Compare those against something you own that fits, measured the same way.

If a listing has no measurements, ask. If the seller will not provide them, that tells you something about the transaction.

Reading condition descriptions

Terms are not standardised, but the common ones mean roughly:

• Deadstock / new with tags — unworn, though old stock can still have storage damage.
• Excellent — worn, no visible flaws.
• Very good / good — minor wear, which should be described specifically.
• Fair / distressed — visible flaws. Fine if that is the look you want and priced accordingly.

What matters more than the grade is whether flaws are photographed. A seller who photographs the small hole is a seller you can trust on the rest of the description.

Flaws worth fixing, and flaws to avoid

Fixable at reasonable cost:

• Missing buttons, loose seams, a broken zip pull.
• Pilling on knitwear — a fabric shaver takes minutes.
• Hems and taking in a waist, if you use an alterations service.
• Most surface marks, with appropriate cleaning.

Usually not worth it:

• Moth holes in wool, particularly several — the garment may have eggs in it.
• Underarm staining and odour, which are often permanent.
• Stretched or misshapen knits, which do not recover.
• Perished elastic in waistbands and cuffs.
• Anything needing the garment made larger — letting out is limited by the seam allowance, which is often minimal in modern clothing.

When it arrives

Wash or air it before wearing, and before putting it near the rest of your wardrobe — this is the sensible precaution against moths. Freezing a wool item for a few days in a sealed bag is a common first step for the same reason.

Check the fibre content before washing. Older garments may have no care label, in which case treat them as delicate until you know.

Authenticity

For branded items, look at construction and hardware rather than logos, which are the easiest thing to copy. Buy through platforms with an authentication step or a buyer protection scheme for anything expensive, and pay through a method that offers recourse.

Before you order

Ask for flat measurements and compare against something you own. Check whether the seller accepts returns, since many second-hand sellers do not. Check the photographs for the flaws described, and treat their absence as a question. And check the fibre content, because it decides both how you clean it and how it will wear.